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I got through this issue by lots of googling. I use this set of instructions: https://www.digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-install-and-configure-vnc-on-ubuntu-18-04 but instead of installing:

sudo apt install tightvncserver

I used

sudo apt-get install tigervnc-standalone-server

Which solves the immediate problem. I can run ROS, various qt utilities, and turtlesim pretty well. However, getting rviz and gazebo running breaks. I dont know if it's simply matter of performance of the particular node I have on digital ocean or something more fundamental with the configuration.