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After some research we've found out that there are huge performance loss inside message conversion function in rclpy (see ling to issue on github in comments to original question for details).

As a workaround, you might run python with -O option, which disables a lot of asserts. That results in decent frame rate growth.

@marguedas also suggested setting PYTHONOPTIMIZE=0. Although I did not try it yet, I assume it will lead to the same result.